Food and faith

One year in, a Mennonite gastronomic landmark in Camargo nourishes hearts and bellies.

“I didn’t know bread and butter could be so good,” says Marie Darrell. She is not a butter lover, but she makes exception for the Amish butter and homemade sourdough bread at the Walnut Leaf Country Market in Camargo. The package of butter lists two ingredients: cream, salt.

Marlin Gerber, 41, husband and father of eight, owns the shop. “We cater to people that care about what they eat. They like to know where their stuff comes from,” he says. The family- run operation opened in an old Subway restaurant in August 2017. A year later its reputation for providing wholesome, high-quality products attracts patrons from the surrounding area.

Marlin and his family moved from Morgan County to Montgomery County two years ago to be involved in a new church community. “Doing some retail work has been my dream. I enjoy meeting people. That was the heart of store interest,” he says.

The fall deer harvest intensifies Marlin’s workload at his other small business, Appalachian Meats, a custom and commercial meat processor in West Liberty. When he does make it into the Camargo  shop, he loves to connect with customers and his staff. “Sometimes I like to do the simple things, like eating candy,” he says, laughing.

Despite Marlin’s seasonal absence from the store, he is happy. “I would say a thank you to the community for the response of our presence in Camargo. That might sound funny,” he says,”but I’ve a real appreciation for the little business we have there and the acceptance of it. I thank the good Lord, too.”